Thursday, June 28, 2018

Hidden Crossings - Umtanum Creek Canyon

This hike has been particularly frustrating for me. It was one of the first hikes I attempted after moving to the Yakima area. My first attempt was in early spring and it was flooded out. My second attempt came a few months later, where about a mile in I found myself stuck, unable to find where the creek crossed.

This year, I met a fellow hiker who had gotten stuck at the same point. We set out together. It took a bit of hunting, but we finally found the creek crossing! We went until we hit another dead-end. If we were feeling bold, we could have attempted another creek crossing but her toddler was ready to turn around at that point. I believe you can go all the way up the canyon to Wenas Road if you are motivated enough, but that would be a significantly longer hike that would likely require overnight camping.

We were just excited to find the crossing! I'll try to explain where we found it as best as we could.

Umtanum Creek Canyon
FBLM/WA State DNR
Parking permit: $5 FBLM permit
Distance: 4 miles round-trip
Elevation gain: 500'
From Ellensberg, head south on Canyon Road until you reach Umtanum Creek Recreation Area. From Yakima, head north on I-82 and take the exit for Highway 821. Head north on 821 through the canyon until you reach Umtanum Creek Rec Area.

You'll cross a blue footbridge across the river and then go under the railroad tracks to reach the trail.


At the obvious noticeboard, there's an obvious trail that goes to the left and up. Ignore that and hang a right instead, heading up the canyon. There's a lot of open steppe interspersed with tree groves. Later in the year, you may be fighting your way through shoulder-high tall grass that obscures the trail, so spring is probably the best season for this hike.




The banks of the creek are often steep on one side, so you can't just cross wherever you please. It took some hunting, but we found the crossing a little bit after the beaver dam.


A bit after this, the trail begins to braid out in multiple directions, with several dispersed campsites dotting the area. Keep to the narrower path closer to the creek and look for where it levels out with a big rocky shore. Here, we found a few logs that seemed intentionally placed to allow crossing. With a bit of careful balancing, we were able to cross and pick up the trail on the other side.

If you don't cross, you'll come across some old fenceposts and markings of an old homestead. If you hit this, you've gone a little bit too far. If the trail dead-ends in a festering pool of green muck, you definitely went too far.

Remember, there aren't too many places you can cross due to the steepness of the creek banks. The crossing is about a mile up the trail, so keep exploring any accessible bank until you find the crossing point. It's there, but it's difficult to find!

We continued on for another mile until we hit a dead end.



At this point if we were ambitious enough we could have made it across...it's shallow enough and there are enough footholds it wouldn't be too challenging, however we didn't see an obvious continuation on the other side, so we decided to turn around here. There are some nice areas to sit and rest in the shade, so it's a decent picnic and turnaround spot.




There were some flowers, though we didn't hit it at peak flower season, and there were lots of birds, snakes, and other wildlife. One squirrel in particular I think we annoyed, as it didn't seem to appreciate sharing the trail and thought we were following it.

As frustrating as this hike was in the past, it felt great to finally find that crossing and push through the other side. Perseverance and determination finally paid off, especially when two hikers worked together.

Thursday, June 21, 2018

Sketchy Bridges - Tieton Nature Trail

I've hiked this trail in two different sections. There are three different creek crossings you may choose from. Two of them are scary, one is not. No matter where you cross, you'll get to enjoy a mix of shade from conifer trees and open shrub-steppe grasslands

Tieton Nature Trail
Washington State DNR
Pass: Discover Pass ($10/day or $30/year)
Distance: ~6 miles round-trip
Elevation gain: negligible
From Yakima, head west on Highway 12. At the junction with Highway 410, turn left to stay on 12. The best place for parking is at the Oak Creek Wildlife Center about half a mile from the junction, on the eastern-most end of the trail. There's a nice metal bridge across the street from the wildlife center you can start at that's very solid with sturdy railing.

Alternatively you can go about 1.5 miles past the wildlife center to a Quonset hut and a suspension bridge; this is where I have parked however the holes in the metal plates required me to carry my dog across as they were too big for his paws.



Be warned that this suspension bridge has a lot of slack in it. And while it looks like there's a handrail there, that's the top cable and you'll have to be tall enough to reach it if you were hoping to hold onto it (on the shore ends, I generally can't reach it with my 5'7" height and have to grab the vertical support bars, but for the bulk of the span I can reach the cable). If you have a group of people I would cross one at a time because of the sway.


If you really don't want to pay for a permit (at $30/year, it's a steal if you're really into hiking, but I digress), there's a limited amount of free parking about 3 miles past the wildlife center, across the street from a slow vehicle turnout. Park across the street; don't park in the turnout! There you'll find a narrow footbridge. It's about two and a half feet wide and there are no handrails which makes it a bit of an unnerving option, but unlike the suspension bridge it's solid underfoot.


Really though, the bridge across the wildlife center is the best. I don't have a photo of it at the moment unfortunately, but it truly is a good solid bridge. If you get nervous around bridges, that's the crossing you definitely want.

Starting from the wildlife center, you'll cross the bridge and immediately head right and go through the wildlife gate. For the first three miles, you'll wander across lots of open steppe. Bring plenty of water in warm weather; you'll need it here.


The trail is mercifully flat, so it's a great hike for a newbie.



You'll pass beneath the Royal Columns, towering basalt cliffs that are a popular spot for rock climbers. Keep in mind there are seasonal closures to protect nesting eagles, however the trail passes just outside the closure area so you're safe for hiking.

From the suspension bridge to the footbridge, you'll encounter more tree cover interspersed with grassy meadow. The trees are not many, but when you're in the thick of it you can almost, almost feel like you're in a real forest. For this native west-sider, it was a breath of fresh air.


The trail will also gain a few slight hills here. In the early spring, I found some mud from recent snow melt, but it was easily navigable.



Beyond the footbridge the trail continues for approximately another mile, though I did not venture out that far.

This trail is best in the spring or fall. In the winter it is snow-covered and snowshoes are a must. In the summer, beware of the high heat. For the shoulder seasons, though, this is a perfect hike that offers a lot of variety in a relatively short distance.